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Lisbon: A mixed experience

Lisbon did not live up to my expectations...


So I went to Lisbon for the Web Summit event. I was there to promote a business on behalf of my dad. I didn't really feel like I fit in too well since I'm not a "techbro." I don't like crypto, web3, or care for the blockchain (although the "blockchain" selling point seems to have been replaced by AI). I also don't really care about GenAI and might even have a bit of disdain for it. Thankfully, there were a few people like me who were just there to sell a product without being interested in investor-bait tech.

It was a busy week overall, as I had to be there every day, especially on the last day, when we had a stand in the "Alpha" section of businesses. My dad and I probably won't be coming here again. The attendance was over 71k, and among them, there were probably about 2,000 investors, all hiding their badges as desperate businesses and start-ups preyed on them.

I don't want to go on about Web Summit all day, though; I've had enough of that. I wanted to vent my frustration about actually doing tourism in Lisbon. If you're from Lisbon or love the city, please don't get angry. I did only have one day available for tourism, so take this criticism with a grain of salt, as your experience may be better than mine.

The Bad

The city feels unclean. I can't quite put my finger on it—perhaps it's the number of abandoned buildings or the many buildings with peeling paint. Seriously, there are SO many buildings with peeling paint. The craziest thing is hearing it being sold as a touristic or historic feature. I can only imagine this is being marketed as part of the "Lisbon Vibe" to justify not repainting the façades.

Another issue is the uneven ground, particularly noticeable in areas with tiled surfaces. Again, it's sold as a "historic" element of Lisbon, with pretty patterns on the ground made from tiles. However, I struggle to appreciate its significance. It makes walking through the city quite challenging. It feels like walking on a grassy field due to the pervasive unevenness. I've nearly tripped multiple times because the elevation on the floor changed more than I anticipated. There isn't a square meter of tiles where the elevation stays consistent, with no bumps or dips. I shouldn't have to remind people that this is an accessibility nightmare for people that have mobility challenges.

Lastly, the whole place has a shabby, run-down vibe, full of cheap, dilapidated shops. The jarring mix of architectural styles makes me feel like I'm in an Eastern Soviet country and Europe at the same time. The uneven tile flooring I mentioned earlier only amplifies this sense of neglect, complemented by the lack of care for the façades and numerous abandoned buildings scattered throughout Lisbon.

The Good

The more modern areas of Lisbon, such as those around the Expo '98 area, feel much nicer to be in. Of course, this is only because more money was invested in these areas, which are often inhabited by the wealthier, with luxurious-looking apartments neighboring large office buildings belonging to international corporations. Ignoring these wealthier areas, we return to the main areas of Lisbon, where you can find historic buildings and monuments like the Belém Tower, the São Jorge Castle, the Bairro Alto, and other must-sees. These places are often breathtaking, grand, and full of details that can captivate you. Lisbon has these interesting monuments and historical buildings (as well as more modern structures worth visiting) dotted around the city.

The food is great, really great. I ate at a smash burger place called "Stack," which was probably one of the best smash burgers I've had so far. Another day, I ate at Hard Rock Cafe, which is always good, and on the last day, I visited a nice Mexican place. I don't like seafood, so I avoided most Portuguese or more traditional kitchens.

The Ugly

I was quite alarmed by the high number of homeless people and tents in many places scattered around the city of Lisbon, around train stations, and on the sides of streets. It was sad, albeit a bit impressive—the homeless in Lisbon are quite crafty in how they build their shelters.

Another thing I noticed was the pichaçao graffiti. If you didn't know, pichaçao, also known as pixaçao, is a form of graffiti originating in Brazil, characterized by its distinctive, cryptic style of writing. Often, it is sprayed on historical buildings or key points to "uglify" the area as a form of protest against social and economic inequalities.

These two issues, combined with the run-down vibe of the city, give me the impression that people—at least in Lisbon—aren't living with much stability.

So...

I'm quite disappointed with my experience. I'm sure many people from Portugal would tell me that either Lisbon doesn't represent the rest of Portugal or that I "visited the wrong places in Lisbon" (even though we visited most areas, from the least to most touristy ones). Regarding the first point, I'd like to visit Portugal more and see what else it has to offer. As for the second point, I have to disagree. If I have to look hard to find a good spot, your city isn't very tourist-friendly.

I think my main issue is that I was led to believe Lisbon is this beautiful place everyone should visit once in their lifetime, but what I got instead is Paris Syndrome.

Addendum

I am writing this part after arriving home: Oh my GOD.

The airport experience is the worst. If you fly with one of the more expensive airlines, they'll take you to Terminal 1, a modern terminal that gives you the impression that you're NOT in a decrepit city. However, if you choose to fly with a cheaper airline, like I did, you'll end up in Terminal 2, which is this TINY terminal that makes you feel like you're in a brutalist hell (and I like brutalist architecture!). It's the concrete equivalent of a sardine can, with everyone squished together trying to get to their flight. There wasn't a single chair available; half the people were sitting on the floor, and for a massive queue of people, they only opened one security checkpoint. At least I had priority boarding.

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